Відео

Vikki, you have a fantastic audience here! Experienced craftswomen and men willing to share their expereince and advice😊❤

100% get a finish plasterer in, it's a real skill

Greets from your old Debs lot! Loving the series. Have you decided what you're using to hang the TV yet? Have done similar in the past with a timber frame followed by ply and plasterboard, bit more space behind to allow future working room. On the penetrations to ceiling, i think i'm going with a fire sock next time, will still close the gap, but allow future access

Dot and dab just seem a bit ropey to me for some reason - and I've noticed a lot of movement on some of our walls particularly when timber framed. Battens just seem a bit more mechanically "robust" albeit maybe more time consuming and costly?

Yet another very informative video.

Great job done the Mr and Mrs TCD!

You've made the right decision!

You shouldn’t prefill the joints.

All im going to say is ""GYPLINER" or at the least ,timber battens with "GYPLINER" brackets .

Hi did you check its ok to cut into roof trusses? I would have thought its not a good thing to do structurally as they are designed to spread the loading of the roof?

There is plenty of room behind plasterboard for cables that is dot and dabbed.Vertical battening prevents spurred sockets (or equivalent) being added sideways at a later date.Frame fixings are a good idea for this type of work....

Excellent job vikkie and mr tcd ,love your videos vikkie you are awesome at everything you do ,nice one thankyou both of you keep em coming 👍🏻💪🏻

Always score the paper at the back of the cut after you've snapped it it's much easier and a cleaner cut.

Great job Vikkie, so satisfying seeing it come together. Got to agree about timber in packs, we built a massive catio last year and so much of what turned up was useless, really frustrating.

Nooice!

👍

Well done all round.😀👍

Would have been easier with mf imho.

Is Mr TCD camera shy?

Use a bit of plaster board and chalk the front edge of back box’s as when you bang the plaster board on it will leave the mark better

Yeahhhh shorts at last 🎉🎉🎉🎉lol would multi material drill bits help ?

Great work Vicki, when you do more boarding and if you decide to dot and dab then lay your boards horizontally, you can get a straight edge along the board so skirting sit true and then use a plumb rule to tap home 1200mm high, this is easier to do then trying to plumb a 2400mm board and them hoping you get a straight wall with it going in and out. Hope you understand my thinking there.

Well done Vikkie you're doing a fab job one tip I would give you is when you score the plasterboard with your knife then fold it over run your knife down the paper from the back of it you'll find it a lot easier to follow the natural crease in the fold. I'm really enjoying your journey although I'm not sure whats harder doing the work yourself or keeping my name sake off camera lol. Keep up the great work xx

I keep a tube of red lipstick in my toolbox to dab on the edges of the electric boxes/ protrusions before doing the tamping for impressions method you used, leaving an easy to see red line to cut out. Chalk can also work for this if you can get it to stick to the protruding object. Happy DIYing😻

Use the edge of a bit of scrap plasterboard and rub it on your boxes. It'll act almost like a crayon and leave a nice clear mark when you knock your sheet onto the boxes.

Having dot and dabbed an entire house, I can say it’s hard work even with helper. When cutting close to a board edge, score both sides with knife before snapping and cleaning up. When cutting board well away from edges (normal cuts), after snapping, cut the backing paper from the back not the front, it’s easier.

Lining paper might help with the wall when you have filled all the gaps and sanded them down. It might save on getting the wall plastered. Remember to fill the gaps on the joining paper if you use that method. Use a high-grade paper to hide any imperfections. 👍👍

Looks good & should definitely look all the better for being flat, not wavy 😉 Don’t ask how I know, ha hmm…

Mr. TCD has a talent for filming, assisting and managing to keep himself out of camera range. Seriously, Well Done to the both of you...ya'all did a beautiful job with the wall!!! It is interesting to see the differences in building methods between the US & the UK...I had cinder block walls when I lived in US Navy barracks...hated them...but now I can see how the wall would have been vastly improved with your batten and drywall process. Wishing you both great success with future projects!

Get a board lifter you can stick your foot in. Makes it so much easier.. It's best to use tape on tapered boards and skim square edge.

Affix - not fix

Why don't you just render it then plaster it much faster and easier, roy.

Excellent video and a professional look I have always gone for taper edge that way you fill the join and get a perfect flat wall

I never buy wood in a pack. I open them up and get the better ones and cable tie them together in the right quantity. Just make sure you have a bar code on the new 'pack' 😉😉

You’re definitely not a beginner!

Hi Vikkie starting to look real good, can’t wait to see it finished, two things when mounting the TV ideally the middle of the screen should be at eye level when you re sitting down also you mentioned about colours for the wall as you are mounting a Philips Ambilight it needs to be a white wall really otherwise the lighting won’t look right.

I look forward to your videos every week :D Please keep them coming

Remodeling is so much easier in the U.S. where the houses are made of wood.unless it is 150 years old like mine and the wood is petrified .lol. I would use construction glue as well as screws. Concrete block cannot be trusted to hold a fastener.

Nice job! Work done right is work worth being proud of. I enjoyed watching

tip for the boxes - add chalk to the edge of the boxes before tapping

I battened my bathroom walls which were all over the place... I used a method suggested by Robin Clevett which was to build the batten frame on the floor, then screw it to the wall - this allows you to get the corners flat and plumb - and then basically have something holding your timber in place while you put in any packers you need. Also, a laser level would be your friend here - rather than using a conventional level to check for plumb.

just use gypliner metal stud - watching that was painful

Dot and Dab is the quicker method for getting it on the wall, but needs experience to level the surface before the board becomes soggy from the moisture in the adhesive. Also takes days to dry properly as all the moisture has to go through the board, making the board very susceptible to damage (look at it wrong and it'll take a chunk out the surface, just because) until it's completely dry again. Also doesn't give much help in the future for cable runs.

40mm cellotex on 12.5mm plasterboard bonded with gripfix at 100mm intervals for the win.

Coming along nicely. Well done 👍

the steps on my stairs somewhat is a combination of metal and a slab. any idea on what kind of approach to do? Forgive me for being silly and I don't seem to have any idea on what are the technical names. most of the videos I found are stairs made of wood and no metal stairs. Hope anyone can help me with this.

Looking good!

Always take the covers off the electric, so that you dont have to be exact when the paint is on that the covers actually cover.

them masonry screws look very good, saves a lot of rawlplug faff... i would have gone with battens too, I just don't trust myself to level plasterboard with dot and dab and I think battens are a better job all round. thanks for sharing and all is progressing well!

Try the Bosch Expert Multi Material drilll bits as they allow you to drill through the wood and then into the brick